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03/31/2022
 3 minutes

Did Grand Seiko just win Watches & Wonders 2022?

By Troy Barmore

For the past few years, Grand Seiko has had an extremely impressive run of spectacular new additions to their lineup. Each subsequent release has brought new colors and textures to their famously intricate dials, as well as new case designs and entirely new movements. When you consider the advent of the Evolution 9 collection and its flagship White Birch and the debut of a series of season-themed GMTs shortly thereafter, you could be forgiven for thinking Grand Seiko might coast a bit for this year’s show. That is certainly not the case.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Sports Watches

The Evolution 9 collection is quite possibly Grand Seiko’s most forward-thinking series to date with its dynamic faceted cases and contrasting finishes. With this year’s additions, Grand Seiko brings five new sports models to the lineup, including two new GMTs, two new GMT chronographs, and an all-new Spring Drive powered diver. The watches all feature high-intensity titanium cases and bracelets and are priced between $8,400 and $11,600. 

Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection White Lion

The new Grand Seiko White Lion

It’s fairly safe to say that the new Grand Seiko White Lion (SBGD209) is not what you might expect when you think of a bejeweled Grand Seiko. However, the bold watch, featuring an angular white gold and platinum case set with 267 diamonds and powered by the Caliber 9R01, is perhaps the perfect jewelry watch for the moment. It is strong and unflinching in its size and presence, yet still elegant despite such extravagance. It is priced at $250,000 and limited to just five pieces. 

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

The new Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

With the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, Grand Seiko has finally thrown their hat into the ring of watchmakers creating world-class grand complications. This is a remarkable achievement on its own, but when you consider that this is actually Grand Seiko’s first grand complication, the achievement becomes even more remarkable. With its magnificently skeletonized movement cased in a combination of titanium and platinum, the SLGT003 Kodo is a world-class timepiece in no uncertain terms. This watch is priced at $350,000 and limited to just 20 pieces.

Our Take on the Grand Seiko Releases for Watches & Wonders 2022

For several years now, Grand Seiko has been on a remarkable trajectory of growth and innovation, both in terms of their position in the market as well as their lineup. While it is no secret that some in the watch world still don’t consider the Japanese watchmaker to be of the same caliber as their Swiss counterparts, with each new release, such opinions are becoming more and more difficult to support and are starting to sound a bit silly, to be frank.  

Grand Seiko continues to release watches that are so finely finished and meticulously detailed that it has almost become a cliché – of course we all expect Grand Seiko to come out with a new gorgeous dial, that’s what they do! But by creating something as mechanically brilliant and aesthetically magnificent as the Kodo, Grand Seiko has instantly elevated itself to an entirely new echelon of watchmaking. The horological prowess required to create something so complex and also truly innovative in terms of accuracy, construction, and beauty is a feat for which Grand Seiko will be justly praised for years to come.


About the Author

Troy Barmore

I have been a watch enthusiast from a young age. My obsession began when I took a summer job for the sole purpose of buying my older brother’s Girard-Perregaux chronograph. My tastes have since expanded to include vintage tool watches and modern independent brands.

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