Gold watches are hot once more, as previously mentioned in this article. However, yellow and rose (or red) gold are certainly not for everyone. In addition to stainless steel or titanium, there are a few white precious metals to choose from.
Same color, different values
You may ask why you’d go for a white precious metal when there’s stainless steel which looks quite similar. As is often the case with luxury products, it may not make much sense in an objective way, but it does on an emotional level. A connoisseur will immediately recognize the tone of a white precious metal as opposed to the ‘cold’ look of stainless steel. While stainless steel or titanium is a perfect choice for a sports watch, white gold or platinum, for example, give elegant timepieces from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, or Lange & Söhne an additional touch of exclusivity.
Precious metals make more sense for haute horlogerie timepieces and not only ensure the movement is beautifully finished, but also that the case, crown, and buckle (or folding clasp) are just as precious. If you have a time-only watch, a white precious metal will likely ensure that only you know how truly precious and valuable your watch is.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, Image: Bert Buijsrogge – View offers on Chrono24
This brings us to another point: visibility. You can probably imagine the difference between choosing a Rolex Day-Date in white gold instead of yellow gold. In white gold or platinum, the Day-Date or Daytona will attract less attention than in yellow gold. Similarly, even if someone isn’t familiar with a brand like Lange & Söhne or F.P. Journe, the value of a watch is much more visible (at times to people with the wrong intention) if you’re wearing it in rose or yellow gold. Having the same piece in a white precious metal will keep you under the radar; at least to those who aren’t watch enthusiasts.
Precious, not perfect
Are there any downsides to white precious metals? Sure. For starters, there’s the cost. White gold is just as expensive as yellow gold, and platinum is even more expensive. Not only is platinum more pure than white gold (18-carat white gold is 75% gold, whereas platinum is 95% pure), it is also more difficult to work on for watch manufacturers. Platinum is more tough – or chewy – than gold, which takes its toll on the equipment that is used to process the material. Therefore, watches made of precious metal usually cost double or even triple the price of the same model in stainless steel.
Another downside is that precious metals have the tendency to scratch a bit more easily than stainless steel. Thankfully it is also easier to buff scratches out or have dents restored. Another thing to consider is the weight of platinum. For some people this is considered a pro and for others it’s a con. The metal does weigh significantly more than stainless steel or white gold.
The other precious metal
In addition to white gold and platinum, there’s palladium. This is a white precious metal that we don’t see very often. While it looks quite a bit like platinum, it weighs much less. However, it does belong to the same group as platinum and is used for watches as well as in dental technology and electronics. Palladium is less expensive than both platinum and gold. A few brands used palladium in their watches, including Ulysse Nardin, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and H. Moser & Cie. Although it is not as expensive as platinum or white gold, it is a very rare metal.
Different in many ways
Regardless of whether you pick a watch in palladium, white gold, or even platinum, it adds a fair dose of preciousness to the piece. The watch needs to be handled with more care than a stainless steel watch, but the metals certainly give a haute horlogerie timepiece an extra touch of luxury. Some collectors can’t imagine having a tourbillon watch in a stainless steel case. However, do take care when wearing a watch of precious metal. While deep scratches or dents can be repaired during an overhaul or service, try to avoid getting them in the first place. The buckle or folding clasp is often in the same material as the case. Note that the replacement cost of these parts, as well as crowns, pushers, bezels, etc., is much higher than their stainless steel counterparts.
Sports watches in gold or platinum
Some say that sports watches should always be in stainless steel. Others like the freedom of having an iconic sports watch in a precious metal. Even Apple decided to release their Apple Watch in gold. Does it make sense to buy a sports watch that is available in stainless steel in white gold instead?
Some brands use precious metals for special editions of their sports watches; previous Omega Speedmaster models, for example. Brands like Rolex, who offers their Submariner and GMT-Master II in precious metals (yellow and white gold), wants to make sure clients can buy their watches in whatever configuration or metal he or she desires. You will find people that can’t stand a divers watch in gold (although it’s less affected by saltwater!) as it’s more prone to scratches or dents, but others don’t baby their gold watches at all and (ab)use them like there is no tomorrow.
To each his or her own – that’s the beautiful thing about watches and their materials, there’s plenty of choice. It’s easy to picture someone both wearing a platinum A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 at a meeting in the boardroom and donning a white gold Rolex Submariner on the golf course afterwards.
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Two-tone gold and steel watches… can you handle the double standard?!
